9
Miniatures the Organic Way
Ah, but a man's reach should Exceed his grasp, Or what's a Heaven for?
ROBERT BROWNINGOrganic gardeners know that proper soil preparation must precede any type of planting, be it radishes or roses. There is no secret about preparing soil. These basic suggestions and recommendations will serve as guides for uninitiated gardeners. And if you have not been happy with the results you have achieved with your plants perhaps you, too, may profit by them.
Soil preparation may be broken down into two categories; a potting mix for container grown plants and ways to improve soil in the outdoor garden.
This recommended potting mix can be used in pots, tubs, planters and all other kinds of containers. As with most recipes, proportions may be altered slightly to fit your needs. Sand may be substituted for part of the actual soil.
1 part (by volume) soil
1 part (by volume) sand or perlite
1 part (by volume) peatmoss
The soil should be good disease-free garden loam. Run the soil through a one-half or one-quarter-inch mesh screen to remove sticks, stones and other foreign matter. Use a soil shredder to prepare large quantities of soil.
Sand should be clean river or builder's sand. If available soil is tight or heavy clay, add more sand and use less clay. Clean perlite may be used in place of sand.
Peatmoss is a good organic material which is readily available at a reasonable price. However, shredded or decayed leafmold, compost or even fir or hemlock bark may be substituted for the peatmoss.
After the three basic materials are prepared and thoroughly mixed, mix in a small amount of organic fertilizer. The kind used will depend upon what is available. Wellrotted barnyard manure is always good. Some gardeners use chicken or rabbit manure, but in lesser amounts to avoid burning. Be careful in using peatmoss from the poultry house as it may be too "hot" for small plants. Fish fertilizer is a great food for miniatures. It's not entirely odorless and for a few days after application plantings may tend to draw flies. But it does help grow wonderful miniature roses.
The second recommendation is for garden soil in which to grow your miniature roses. Wherever possible the general suggestions above may be adapted. If your soil is too hard and clay-like add sand, fine gravel or perlite to loosen the texture and improve drainage. Work these materials into the soil to a depth of at least a foot. Use sufficient quantity to open up your soil.
If the soil is too open, or sandy, peatmoss and/or other materials recommended above should be worked into the soil to provide proper water holding capacity. Add compost and other organic fertilizers as needed. For a small plot ordinary garden tools such as shovel, spading fork, and garden rake will suffice. Rotary tillers do a quick and thorough job on larger plots.
Planting is really very simple since miniature rose plants are usually sold growing in small pots. Plants are easily removed from these pots with all or most of the roots intact. Because the laws require it, plants shipped into Arizona and Hawaii and to foreign countries, except Canada, must be sent bare root packed in damp moss. If kept moist and planted as soon as possible they will grow just as well as those in pots.
In your prepared soil make a hole large enough for the root ball. Cut off or spread out any protruding roots. Firm soil lightly around the freshly set plant. Water thoroughly to settle soil around the roots and banish drying air pockets. Bare root plants should be planted the same way, spreading out roots then covering with soil. Apply organic fertilizer as needed to encourage good growth and abundant bloom.
Additional routine care of your miniature roses such as watering, pruning, are essentially the same as described in Chapter Seven. The true organic gardener differs from the regular gardener in his ideas about insect and disease control as well as his ideas on fertilization. However, we all agree that a healthy plant like a healthy person is not as likely to be bothered by diseases.
A well-nourished plant will not so easily fall prey to rose blackspot. Even though some disease may be present or insects attempt an attack, healthy, well-grown plants usually ward off or survive these inroads on their health. If diseases or pests strike the organic gardener's roses he dispels them with different weapons of offense and defense, for he gardens without poisonous chemicals.
Dusting sulphur, for instance, will combat ordinary mildew. We find that washing the foliage daily with overhead or lawn-type irrigation sprinklers during the growing season keeps miniatures free of mildew. Overhead sprinkling also helps reduce the possibility of insect invasion. Spider mites are usually no trouble where sprinkling is used as these pests delight in attacking dust-laden foliage. Soapsuds, not detergents, will rid plants of aphids.
Washing the young growth by directing a strong stream or spray of water from the garden hose often gives control. Natural or introduced parasites offer another means of controlling aphids and other pests. The common lady-bird beetle and its larval form, is a well-known example.
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